"Walk like an Egyptian" Scrub Hat tutorial--No download needed




This scrub hat is a little different than most conventional ones.
Why do I call it the "Walk like an Egyptian" scrub hat? Because of the design and shape. Below is a picture of it standing up straight. It reminds me of an ancient Egyptian headress. Just remember to give it a little tug at the back after you put it on. I actually walked out of the change room like this one morning!








See the resemblance?
I find it is very comfortable to wear. This is a great hat to make if you have a stash of scraps you want to use up. This design easily holds long hair.
There is a  little toggle at the back which snugs it up to feel just right. I find it stays put and doesn't ride up on the forehead.





Materials and notions required for "Walk like an Egyptian" Scrub hat
  • One piece of fabric large enough to cut a circle that is about 6 inches round
  • Four strips of fabric that are between 2 1/2 to 4 inches wide and 24 inches long. Once they are sewn together they should be a total of about 11 inches wide.
  • One 8 inch piece of cording
  • One plastic toggle for cording
  • a bowl or plate that is approximately 6 inches round
  • a marking tool to draw the circle onto the fabric (I use a water erasable marking pen)
  • cutting mat and rotary cutter or scissors
  • serger (optional but makes nice finished edges quickly and easily)
  • sewing machine
  • thread
  • straight needle for hand basting
Method:
    1. Draw a circle onto the fabric.

    I use a corelle bowl for my template which is about 6 1/4 inches round

2.  Carefully cut out the circle using a rotary cutter or scissors.

3.  Choose the layout for your strips then sew together.
As you can see, I decided to change my layout at the last minute.


4. Fold in half with right sides of fabric together and then sew edges together. This creates a tubular structure.
As you sew try to line up the seams of your  strips nicely.

5. Use a straight needle and a long piece of thread to baste all the way around the edge that will be next to the circle at the back. This will enable you to snug up the tube creating slight gathers to fit around the circle. Do not tie a knot or cut off the end, you want to be able to adjust this as you go. 



6. Drop the circle down into the tube. Wrong side of the fabric facing out on both the tube and the circle. Place several pins on the circle to hold it onto the tube. As you pin try to adjust the gathers so they are somewhat evenly distributed around the circle. You may need to pull on the basting thread to snug it up more or stretch it back out if you have already pulled it too much.
It's fine if you have little gaps here and there, it will all come together as you sew.
7. Very carefully serge or machine stitch together. Remove pins as you go. The circle will be facing up as you go. I stop and adjust the gathers about every 5-6 stitches. When sewing a circle it pays to go slow. You will get a better result.

Flip it around and it should look something like this.


8. Now it is time to work on the edge of the hat. Fold up 3/4 inch and iron.

9. If you want buttonholes for your string to come out of place them on the fold. Make one on each side of the seam that joins the hat into the tublar shape. (If you don't feel confident enough in your sewing skills to make button holes I will talk about another option later on.)


My buttonholes didn't turn out great, I am still learning this skill. They serve the purpose though.
Once the string is inserted no one can tell.

10. Place the 8 inch piece of cording so that it lays in the middle of the back of the hat. Pin one end down. set sewing machine to a very tight zigzag stitch. Stitch this end down securely.


11.  Pull the cording down through the buttonhole that is closest to the end you end of the cording you just stitched down. 
I pulled the cording through the buttonhole with some crafting tweezers. Alternatively you could attach a small safety pin to the end of the cording and then push it through the buttonhole. If you don't have either just carefully poke it through with your fingers.


12. Thread the toggle onto the cording. 



 13. Thread the cording back up through the other buttonhole.
Once you have done this pull the cording so it is lying flat and then zigzag stitch the end down.

14. Fold the bottom edge up another 3/4" and press.
 
15. Straight stitch close to the edge all the way around the edge of the hat.


Project complete!  Note: You may be thinking the cording is too short. Once you put the hat on and snug up the toggle you will find there is a piece about 1 1/2" long dangling and it will seem right.




 Now if you decided not to go with the buttonholes the other option is as shown below. The cording is sewn down, then the edge flipped up and sewn. Leave an opening a few inches wide in the middle where I am pointing to with my index finger. Note the cording on this hat is a little longer. I'm not sure exactly how long it is but my guess is about 11" This prevents it from creeping into the open area of the edge of the hat when the toggle is loosened. This one hangs a little further down the back of my neck further once it is snugged up.







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